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In 1963, Americans Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld went for the West Ridge of Everest and soon realized their route was too difficult to descend. So it was up and over, summit or die. They reached the top at 6:15 p.m. "The sun's rays sheered horizontally across the summit," Hornbein writes. "We hugged each other as tears welled up, ran down across our oxygen masks, and turned to ice." A breakthrough ascent, recounted simply and well.

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